Miter Saw
The Miter saw is most commonly referred to as the "chop saw." This saw has a circular blade on an arm. This arm allows for precise cuts with much less practice. The first thing to to understand the difference between bevel and miter. Bevel is tilting side to side to side, where the highest and lowest part of the blade are moving. Miter is the opposite. The furthest part of the blade and closest to you (front/back) will move left or right. Think of bevel as falling over and miter as spinning, like a coin. Originally, Miter saws could only be adjusted to miter. Now we have Compound Miter Saws, which combine the miter and bevel actions into one saw! This makes the Miter saw extremely versatile.
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Blade Size and Sliding
When it comes to buying a compound miter saw, you have to factor in your particular use for it. They go from 7 1/2" to 12" blades. The blade thickness you will need is determined by the thickness of the materials you use. If you wont cut anything more than a 2 by, you don't need a 12" blade. A 12" blade is mainly for beams, baseboard or crown moulding.
You also have the option of picking up a sliding miter saw. A sliding miter is very useful and can allow you to cut things like a 2" by 12" with only a 7 1/4" blade. The problem with sliding miters (besides the up-charge) is the added weight. This forces the saw to have a lot more parts, moving and stationary. The track is also sticks out on this making them harder to get into smaller places. And the more moving parts there are the more chance of something going wrong (especially on less-expensive models).
You also have the option of picking up a sliding miter saw. A sliding miter is very useful and can allow you to cut things like a 2" by 12" with only a 7 1/4" blade. The problem with sliding miters (besides the up-charge) is the added weight. This forces the saw to have a lot more parts, moving and stationary. The track is also sticks out on this making them harder to get into smaller places. And the more moving parts there are the more chance of something going wrong (especially on less-expensive models).
Sighting The Blade
A big part of using a Miter Saw is understanding how to sight the blade. Some models have a laser on them to help with this, but if I'm being honest, you shouldn't trust it unless you just calibrated it. And even then I find them not to be too reliable. To properly sight a blade, lift or look through the blade guard. Remember when cutting material, you always want to side of your blade to match your line. If you center the line you will always be short. To line up the side of your blade, look down the face, on the side of your measured "keeper" piece. Line up a tooth at the top with a tooth at the bottom. This is to be done with your dominant eye only. DO NOT TOUCH THE BLADE while the tool is plugged in. When you have your line just in sight, pull the trigger, allowing the blade to speed up. Then proceed to slowly make your cut.
Calibrating Your Miter Saw
Before using your Miter Saw, make sure to calibrate the blade. Using a 6" Speed Square, you can be sure your saw is making accurate cuts. First put your saw on 0 degrees for miter and bevel. If you don't know how to adjust these settings refer to your manual, because they're all a little different. MAKE SURE YOUR SAW IN UNPLUGGED WHILE ADJUSTING BLADE. Lower the arm of your saw and lift the blade guard. Now you can take your square and set it on the horizontal "table," measuring Square to the blade. Make sure your square isn't being propped up by a tooth. Then, you're going to make any adjustments to the angle of the arm (as per your manual). After the blade is [Flush] to the square, your bevel will be calibrated and 0 degrees will actually be 0 degrees. To calibrate the miter, follow the same instructions. The only difference will be where you place your speed square. This time you will place it on the fence laying horizontal on the table. You can double check your calibration by making sure 45 degrees is also accurate.
Safety Tips
Be sure when cutting with a Miter saw to keep your material against the fence, or the vertical wall. This will ensure your cuts are accurate and your material has no where to go. Don't put your hand close to the blade. The "safe zone" will be marked on the table, or horizontal plate with a "no hands" emblem. The last but definitely not least is to never cross your arms in front of the saw. If the piece your holding is on the right, you MUST use your left hand to make the cut. And if you are holding material in your left hand, you have to make the cut with your right hand.
Miter Saw Recommendation
Tool Basics
Miter Saw Recommendation
Tool Basics